In short:
- Every safe lock has its own change procedure. Find the manual for your exact lock model before you start; the model is usually on the keypad, the dial ring or the inside of the door.
- Make every change with the door open, and test the new code several times before you close it. Sargent & Greenleaf says at least three times for its mechanical locks.
- Pick a code that's hard to guess and suits the lock: no birthdays, house numbers or simple patterns.
- If the old code is lost, the lock won't accept a change, or the keypad is dead, call a locksmith. We ask for proof of ownership before any safe work, and we don't explain how to open a safe without its code.
Which kind of lock does your safe have?
The change procedure depends entirely on the lock, not the safe. Identify it first.
| Lock type | How to recognise it | What a change involves |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanical dial | A numbered dial and dial ring | Usually a special change key and an exact dialling sequence, done with the door open |
| Electronic keypad | Buttons and a beep or light; runs on batteries | A keypad sequence starting with the current master code |
| Keypad with user codes | Manual mentions a master or manager code plus user codes | The master code holder adds, changes and deletes the others |
| Key and code together | A keyhole as well as a dial or keypad | Code changes as above; the key part isn't changed by you |
| Key only | No dial or keypad | No code to change; a lost key means a lock repair or replacement |
Look for a brand and model on the keypad, the back of the dial ring, a sticker inside the door or the safe's paperwork. With that, you can usually find the lock maker's instructions online or from the safe supplier.
Follow the maker's manual, step by step
Generic instructions are how people lock themselves out. The sequence, the number of turns on a dial and even the button that starts a change differ between models. A few rules come up in almost every maker's manual:
- Door open throughout. Sargent & Greenleaf's mechanical lock guide says all changing operations are performed with the door open, and its electronic lock manual says to keep the door open when making programming changes.
- Test before you close. The same mechanical guide says the door should never be closed until the new combination has worked at least three times.
- Start again after any slip. If you think you've made even a small error during the change, the guide says to begin the changing steps again.
- Replace a factory or installer code. Electronic locks often arrive with a factory master code. Sargent & Greenleaf tells owners to set their own unique master code immediately.
- Fresh batteries first. On an electronic lock, a weak battery can let the keypad respond while the lock fails to open. Change batteries as the manual describes before you program a new code.
Choosing a good code
A code you can't remember is a lockout waiting to happen; one that's easy to guess isn't worth having. Sargent & Greenleaf's guidance for its own mechanical locks includes:
- don't use numbers that all end in 0 or 5;
- don't put the numbers in rising or falling order;
- leave a clear gap between neighbouring numbers;
- avoid birth dates, house numbers and phone numbers.
Some mechanical locks also have numbers that shouldn't be used in a particular position, which is another reason to read the manual for your model. For a keypad, avoid repeated or sequential digits. The same maker's manual for one electronic lock points out that a code of six identical digits will work but isn't recommended.
Write the new code down and keep it somewhere secure that isn't the safe itself. In a business, decide who holds the master code and record who has user codes.
A safe routine for the change
After the door is closed and locked, open it once more with the new code. If that works, you're done. Keep the manual with your records.
What makes a lockout more likely
- Closing the door to "see if it worked". If the change went wrong, you're now locked out.
- Repeated wrong entries. Many electronic locks shut down for a penalty period after several wrong codes. Sargent & Greenleaf's manual for one model warns that pressing buttons during that period restarts the timer. Wait it out as the manual says.
- Pressure on the boltwork. Something inside pushing against the door, or a handle not fully in the locked position, can stop a lock opening on a correct code. The same manual's troubleshooting section covers this; follow it rather than forcing the handle.
- Old batteries while programming.
- Codes or "reset tricks" found online. They're for other models, and some lead to damage.
- Drilling, prising or hammering. That turns a programming problem into a costly repair, and on a gun safe can leave firearms unsecured.
When we can help
Safe opening and safe repairs are normal parts of what we do. Call us when:
- the old code or combination is lost, so you can't start a change;
- the lock won't accept a change, or the new code doesn't work with the door still open;
- the keypad is dead even with fresh batteries, or the dial feels loose or gritty;
- the door was closed on an untested code and now won't open;
- a change key is missing for a mechanical lock.
We ask for proof of ownership before opening or working on any safe, and we try non-destructive methods first. Our safe repairs service covers locks that won't take a new code or have failed, and safe opening covers a safe you can't get into. We don't publish or explain ways to open a safe without its code.
For a gun safe, keep the law in mind: the Firearms Control Regulations require a firearm that isn't under the holder's direct control to be stored in a safe or strongroom meeting SABS 953-1 and 953-2. A safe that won't lock properly needs attention quickly. (Our reading of the regulation; check your own obligations with SAPS or your licence conditions.)
As a Centurion mobile locksmith, we come to the safe, 24/7. There's an R250 call-out fee, the technician quotes on site before any work starts, and you can pay by EFT, cash or card. Office safes are part of a wider key control picture; see lock security for offices in a business park.
Details to have ready
- The safe's brand and, if you can see it, the lock brand and model.
- A photo of the keypad or dial, and of the safe from the front.
- Whether the door is open or shut right now.
- What happens when you enter the code: beeps, lights, nothing, or a click without the handle turning.
- Whether it's bolted to the floor or wall, and where it is (bedroom cupboard, office store, under-stair).
- Proof of ownership: a purchase invoice, your ID and proof of residence at the address, or for a business, a letter or company document showing you're authorised.
Questions
Can you talk me through resetting it without the old code?
No. Changing a code normally needs the current code or change key, and getting past a lock without them is safe opening, which we only do on site after checking proof of ownership. If you've lost the code, call us and we'll come out.
How often should the code be changed?
There's no fixed rule. Change it whenever someone who knew it shouldn't any more, such as a former employee, a contractor or someone who has moved out, and after you've had to share it in an emergency. In a business, deleting a departing user's code is part of the exit checklist.
Is a dial or a keypad better?
Both are widely used. Keypads are quicker to use and easier to change, and some support several users, but they need batteries. Dial locks need no power but take care to operate and change. The right choice depends on the safe, who uses it and how often.
Need a locksmith to look at it?
If this hasn't solved the problem, our safe repairs & code changes service covers it. We're a mobile locksmith in Centurion, so we come to your door.
Sources and further reading
- Sargent & Greenleaf: Mechanical safe lock guide (PDF) — changes made with the door open; never close the door until the new combination has worked at least three times; rules for choosing a combination
- Sargent & Greenleaf: Model 6120 electronic lock operating instructions (PDF) — set your own master code immediately; master and user codes; keep the door open while programming; wrong-code penalty lockout; battery and boltwork troubleshooting
- Firearms Control Regulations, 2004 (Government Gazette No. 26156) — regulation 86(1): firearms not under direct control must be stored in a safe or strongroom conforming to SABS 953-1 and 953-2