In short:
- Most locks only release the key in one position. A key that won't come out has often not been turned all the way back.
- Pressure on the bolt or latch, from a door that's pulling against its frame, can hold the key too.
- In a car, many ignitions only release the key in the right position and, on automatics, with the gear lever in P.
- Don't use pliers, don't twist hard and don't spray anything in. A stuck key that snaps is a bigger job.
- If gentle checks don't free it, leave the key where it is and call a locksmith.
Why a lock holds on to a key
A key that's stuck isn't usually trapped by accident. Most cylinders are designed to hold the key until the inner core is back in its starting position, because releasing it half-way through a turn would leave the lock in an uncertain state. ABLOY, for example, specifies some of its cam locks as "key removable in locked position only". When a key won't come out, the first question is whether the lock thinks the turn is finished.
The other common reasons are mechanical: a worn or bent key, dirt or corrosion inside the cylinder, a door that's dragging on the bolt, or a lock that's simply worn out.
Common causes at a glance
| Situation | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Key turned, lock worked, key won't pull out | The core isn't fully back in the release position |
| Key stuck only when the door is shut | The door is pressing on the bolt or latch, so the lock is under load |
| Key goes in and out roughly, then jams | Dirt, dust or corrosion in the keyway, common on outside gates and padlocks |
| A new or copied key sticks, the original doesn't | The key's cuts or thickness don't quite match the lock |
| Key bent or twisted from use | The blade no longer slides cleanly past the parts inside |
| Car ignition won't release the key | Ignition not in the removal position, gear lever not in P, or the steering lock is loaded |
Gentle checks that often free it
- Turn back to the start. Return the key, gently, to exactly where it was when you put it in. Usually that's upright. Feel for the point where it sits naturally.
- Take the load off the door. With the key still at the start position, push the door firmly towards the frame, or pull it towards you, and try again. On a gate, lift slightly or push it closed against its stop.
- Pull straight, with a slight wiggle. Small up-and-down movement while pulling straight out. No twisting and no levering sideways.
- Take the weight off. A heavy key bunch hanging from the key twists it in the cylinder. Hold the bunch up while you try.
- In a car: put an automatic into P and check the ignition is at the position your handbook gives for removing the key. Honda's handbook, for example, says the key can't be taken out of its CVT models unless the shift lever is in P, and suggests moving the steering wheel left and right if the key won't turn from LOCK.
If it hasn't moved after a couple of careful tries, stop. More effort tends to bend or snap the key.
What turns a stuck key into a broken one
| Don't | Why |
|---|---|
| Grip the key with pliers and twist | Concentrates force on the thinnest part of the blade. This is how most snapped keys happen |
| Hit the key or the lock | Bends the key and can damage the cylinder |
| Force the door handle while the key is stuck | Loads the bolt and latch even more |
| Spray a general-purpose oil or silicone product into the keyway | ASSA ABLOY's care guide recommends graphite powder for cylinders, lever locks and padlocks, says silicone-based lubricants get tacky, and warns that cleaning fluids must not get into the lock. Follow your lock maker's guidance, not a can from the garage |
| Leave the key in and keep using the lock | A key that stuck once will stick again, and the next time may be when you're locked out |
If the key does snap, keep both pieces, leave the fragment alone and call for broken key extraction.
Doors, gates, padlocks and cars: what's different
- Front and back doors. Often the door has dropped slightly or the frame has moved, so the bolt rubs on the strike plate. The stuck key is a symptom; the alignment is the problem.
- Security gates. Outside locks collect dust and grit. Follow your gate maker's care instructions. Some security gate makers advise against spraying anything into the keyway at all.
- Padlocks. Rust inside a cheap padlock can make it cheaper to replace the padlock than to free the key. A good one is usually worth saving.
- Cars. The ignition is part of the steering lock and, on many cars, the immobiliser. Don't force it. Work through the handbook first, then call a car locksmith.
When to call us
Call a locksmith when the key won't come out after the gentle checks, when it's bending, when the lock is outside and you can't leave it, or when it happens repeatedly. Freeing a stuck key and finding out why it stuck is ordinary work for us. The technician checks the lock afterwards and tells you whether it needs a repair or is fine.
We're open 24/7 and come to you. The R250 call-out fee. The technician assesses the job on site and gives you the price before any work starts. Nothing is done until you agree. Payment is by EFT, cash or card. We don't do key cutting or key duplication. If a cylinder or lock has to be replaced, the new one comes with its own keys from the manufacturer.
Photos and details that help
- A photo of the key in the lock, straight on, and one from the side showing how far it sticks out.
- A photo of the whole lock or handle and, for a door, the door edge.
- Which way the key was turning and where it is now.
- Whether the door is open or closed, locked or unlocked.
- For a car: make, model, year and gearbox type.
If the stuck key is also leaving you locked out after dark, read locked out late at night: a calm checklist. And if the handle itself feels loose when you use it, see loose or broken door handle: what's behind it. For everything else we do, visit our Centurion mobile locksmith homepage.
Questions
Can I leave the key in the lock until morning?
If the door is locked and secure and the key is on the inside, it can usually wait. If the key is on the outside, or the door can't be locked, get it seen to sooner: a key left in an outside lock is an open invitation.
Will graphite powder free it?
Some lock makers recommend graphite for routine care of cylinders, but that's maintenance, not a rescue method. With a key already stuck, adding anything can make the job messier. Check what your lock maker recommends, and if in doubt, leave it for the technician.
The key came out. Do I need to do anything else?
Probably, yes. A key sticks for a reason: a worn key, a worn lock or a door out of line. If it happened once, it's worth having the lock looked at before the key snaps next time.
Need a locksmith to look at it?
If this hasn't solved the problem, our broken-key extraction service covers it. We're a mobile locksmith in Centurion, so we come to your door.
Sources and further reading
- ABLOY: Universal range cam lock CL109 — Manufacturer specification: key removable in locked position only.
- Honda: Jazz owner's manual, ignition switch — On CVT models the key cannot be removed unless the shift lever is in P; turn the steering wheel left and right if the key won't turn from LOCK.
- ASSA ABLOY: Product care and maintenance — Graphite powder for cylinders, lever locks and padlocks; silicone-based lubricants become tacky; cleaning fluids must not penetrate the lock or cylinder.
- Trellidor: Do's and don'ts of retractable security gates — Security gate maker's advice not to spray into the keyhole of the cylinder.